How to read a cosmetic label: what FDA rules require, and what they don't

Holiday gift sets and new winter moisturizers will soon fill store shelves. Before you buy, it helps to know what the U.S. Food and Drug Administration actually requires on a cosmetic label, and what is just marketing.

What must be on the package

According to the FDA:

• The front panel must say what the product is and give an accurate net quantity.
• Ingredients must be listed on an information panel, in descending order of predominance, meaning the largest amounts come first.
• The label must name the company responsible and its place of business; if that company did not make the product, it should say "Manufactured for" or "Distributed by."
• Required warnings, such as for flammable products, and directions for safe use belong on the label.
• Products sold at retail must list ingredients even if marked for professional use only.

The FDA does not pre-approve cosmetic labels, and a label may not suggest FDA approval.

Drug or cosmetic?

A product that claims to treat or prevent disease may be regulated as a drug. Items that are both, such as a moisturizer with sunscreen, must follow both sets of rules, with drug ingredients labeled separately.

Claims to read skeptically

• "Hypoallergenic": The FDA says no federal standard defines the term, and companies need not prove the claim to the agency.
• "Fragrance": Scent ingredients can appear as a single word, since formulas may be trade secrets.
• "Unscented": The FDA warns these products may still contain fragrance ingredients added to mask other odors.

The agency says people sensitive to fragrance should check ingredient lists and choose fragrance-free products. Problems can be reported to the FDA at 1-888-INFO-FDA.